“My Grandfather Tomeu taught me how to sow, plant, prune, graft, and to tend sheep, rabbits and chickens. He taught me to appreciate the aromas of the morning dew, to nurture a deep-rooted love for the land and also to eat well,” says Tomeu Coll, from Can Lassio in Lloseta. Every day he finds the time to take care of his farms, his animals and his extensive kitchen garden stocked with seasonal fruit and vegetables. This week he is planting garlic and onions and harvesting the latest crop of faba beans. He grows orange, lemon, quince and apricot trees. There is no shortage of olives or capers. It’s the hunting season, and the time for picking autumn mushrooms.
He worked as a waiter for 15 years, combining studies and work, without forgetting his labours in the fields. Cooking was not one of his priorities until a friend encouraged him to enrol at the Escuela de Hostelería de les Illes Balears (Hotel School of the Balearic Islands). The experience especially motivated him to learn how to prepare traditional dishes. Several of his fellow students are now well-known chefs with with own restaurants.
14 years of experience and working in kitchens, including with Joan Abrines in his hometown. With this background, the time came for him to start on his own journey. On the day of Sant Bartomeu, 24 August 2014, he opened his own restaurant in Lloseta, in the former Celler de Can Carrossa, which was used for producing wine in the 1950s. Lloseta, the small Mallorcan town in the district of Raiguer has in recent years become the island’s reference point for the gastronomic scene.
After starting with a mainly technical, very elaborate cuisine, he came to a conclusion: “I want to prepare my mother’s cooking, refined and updated.” Cuisine with a local expression, using seasonal products with a strong link to his native land.
Increasingly more importance is given to traditional recipes in his creations, from the Sent Sovi medieval cookbook to “Maestro” Tomeu Esteva. He places importance on slowly prepared bases, powerful sofrito-based sauces, aromas, bay leaves and olive oil.
He suggests a single menu: a choice of three starters, fish, meat and dessert, which is varied or refined everyday according to the market and season. Dishes that flee from unnecessary complexities and lead us directly to the flavour. A large majority of the vegetables are produced in his own kitchen garden. His house never lacks a regional delicate oil and some dressed Mallorcan olives.
The restaurant is small and very cosy, with a rustic feel with exposed stone walls featuring two large murals by Joana Santamans, reminiscent of his farm overlooking the Serra de Tramuntana Mountains and the Mediterranean Sea that surround us. Together with Tomeu in the kitchen is Pere Saves.
The wine selection is informal, with no list. Guests can see and choose the bottle, with its price, from the wine cellar.
“I prepare my mother’s cooking, technically refined and updated”
Tomeu Lassio restaurant
C. Guillem Santandreu, 38. Lloseta
Tel: (+34) 971 51 43 80
Timetable: Closed on Sundays.
Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner.